I learned tailoring in early 1990s, and although this was close-fitting pattern construction (by M. Müller & Sohn, a.k.a. Rundschau after their journal), my teachers repeatedly said that it was no where nearly as detailed or close-fitting as, say, back in 1950s. The lines became straighter, the fit roomier, but most of all – the female figures became more…… Continue reading 487 vintage patterns – where do I begin?
After the “standard domestic” vertical oscillator from Singer 15, the drop-in bobbin horizontal hook is perhaps the next most common concept in domestic sewing machines. Originally introduced in Singer 66 around 1907 as an oscillating hook, it evolved into a rotary version in model 201 that appeared in 1935. Both hooks are found in many…… Continue reading Singer drop-in bobbin – the two horizontal hooks
Veritas was a Roman goddess of truth. She was believed to be hiding on the bottom of a holy well, as she was so elusive. The world hasn’t changed! 😉 This beauty is by Clemens Müller of Dresden, Germany, from around 1910. Established in 1855, Clemens Müller was one of the oldest, if not…… Continue reading True stitches
These machines are installed in my sewing room and are being used all the time. Each machine has its own unique set of functions which are needed in different situations, so although “all the time” does not mean 24/7, it still means that these machines are needed regularly and should be ready, willing and…… Continue reading My evolving sewing crew – 3rd edition
How does a sewing machine produce fancy stitches? It’s a combination of stitch length, zig-zag, needle position and reverse feed, and every fancy stitch can be reproduced manually, although it can be a very tedious process. Skip to particular sections: Fancy stitches done manually Fancy stitches with modulated zig-zag width Cam-driven zig-zag Combinations of geared…… Continue reading Fanciful ways of fancy stitches
Snap… snap-snap-snap! There go your stitches if you’ve sewn your jersey top with a regular straight stitch on your sewing machine. 😦 Surely, there must be a better way! Yes, there are in fact several. In this post I’m investigating which stitches stretch with the jersey and which don’t, using regular sewing thread, not lycra…… Continue reading Stitches that stretch with your jersey
I have new inventions to report! Wow, I’m so excited!! Well, to be fair, they are not brand new inventions of mine, but rather adaptations of my existing sewing machines to do new things. Still exciting though! Skip to Chain stitch on a vertical oscillator Skip to New double needle double step stitch The chain…… Continue reading New inventions!