487 vintage patterns – where do I begin?

I learned tailoring in early 1990s, and although this was close-fitting pattern construction (by M. Müller & Sohn, a.k.a. Rundschau after their journal), my teachers repeatedly said that it was no where nearly as detailed or close-fitting as, say, back in 1950s. The lines became straighter, the fit roomier, but most of all – the female figures became more…… Continue reading 487 vintage patterns – where do I begin?

Horizontal oscillating hook · Horizontal rotary hook

Singer drop-in bobbin – the two horizontal hooks

After the “standard domestic” vertical oscillator from Singer 15, the drop-in bobbin horizontal hook is perhaps the next most common concept in domestic sewing machines. Originally introduced in Singer 66 around 1907 as an oscillating hook, it evolved into a rotary version in model 201 that appeared in 1935. Both hooks are found in many…… Continue reading Singer drop-in bobbin – the two horizontal hooks

Crew · Sewing machines

My evolving sewing crew – 3rd edition

​​ These machines are installed in my sewing room and are being used all the time. Each machine has its own unique set of functions which are needed in different situations, so although “all the time” does not mean 24/7, it still means that these machines are needed regularly and should be ready, willing and…… Continue reading My evolving sewing crew – 3rd edition

Sewing machines

Fanciful ways of fancy stitches

How does a sewing machine produce fancy stitches? It’s a combination of stitch length, zig-zag, needle position and reverse feed, and every fancy stitch can be reproduced manually, although it can be a very tedious process. Skip to particular sections: Fancy stitches done manually Fancy stitches with modulated zig-zag width Cam-driven zig-zag Combinations of geared…… Continue reading Fanciful ways of fancy stitches

Chain stitch hooks · Clothes · Jersey · Overlock · Vertical oscillating hook · Vibrating shuttle

Stitches that stretch with your jersey

Snap… snap-snap-snap! There go your stitches if you’ve sewn your jersey top with a regular straight stitch on your sewing machine. 😦 Surely, there must be a better way! Yes, there are in fact several. In this post I’m investigating which stitches stretch with the jersey and which don’t, using regular sewing thread, not lycra…… Continue reading Stitches that stretch with your jersey