Flexible stitch is necessary for sewing jersey so that it would stretch with the material. However, regular straight stitch of a lockstitch machine is usually not flexible. So what to do? Popular solutions include using elastic thread, sewing with narrow zig-zag instead of straight stitch or sewing with an overlocker. But what if you really… Continue reading That elusive flexible stitch
I've had synthetic fur coats before - they looked great but didn't keep me warm, so a nice thick woolen coat was always warmer. But two years ago I saw this amazing blond fluffy furriness for a tenner on sale - it was late March. So I got it, thinking to make it into a… Continue reading Taming the fox
My first make from the 1951/1952 vintage pattern collection from the German Praktikus Modenblatt! After a lot of dithering, I'm doing it! No more procrastinating making alledgedly urgently needed jersey tops! No longer impersonating that donkey who starved facing two stacks of hay not being able to decide where to start eating! Huzzah! Fabric and… Continue reading A dress from 1952
This is the system found in Kenmore and Frister+Rossmann machines from 1970s. It is made in Japan by Marutzen/Jaguar for forward-facing vertical oscillators, or class 15 machines (based on the mechanism of Singer model 15). It consists of a modified hook, a clip-on adapter that replaces the bobbin case, and a special needle plate,… Continue reading Reliable chain stitch with the Jaguar adapter
For me, a successful pattern is one that I made many times over, with variants, in different colours and fabrics. Admittedly, I haven't got many of those! But this is a story of one such pattern which is still going. The summer dress Some years ago I bought a viscose jersey dress which fitted so… Continue reading A successful pattern
Differential feed is when the upper and lower layers of the material are fed at different speeds, or as in overlockers when the front and rear of the feed dogs are moving at different speeds. The result is that the sewing gets stretched or gathered, either all of it or just one layer relative to… Continue reading The gathering foot, the ruffler and differential feed
Milk? Don't drink it - wear it! Swicofil website has the most wonderful articles on so many different textile fibres, old and new. Just click on Products and scroll down...