Dense weaves · Nanotex

It’s not the thickness, it’s the density

...that makes a fabric appear "heavy duty" to your sewing machine. Let's not count how many decades it took me to figure that one out! 😳 But first: what do I mean by "heavy duty"? Something that requires significant punching power to get through. Like saddle leather, sail canvas, military felted wool, but also many… Continue reading It’s not the thickness, it’s the density

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Chain stitch hooks · Jersey · Straight stitch · Transverse shuttle · Vibrating shuttle

That elusive flexible stitch

Flexible stitch is necessary for sewing jersey so that it would stretch with the material. However, regular straight stitch of a lockstitch machine is usually not flexible. So what to do? Popular solutions include using elastic thread, sewing with narrow zig-zag instead of straight stitch or sewing with an overlocker. But what if you really… Continue reading That elusive flexible stitch

Stretch woven · Vintage patterns

A dress from 1952

My first make from the 1951/1952 vintage pattern collection from the German Praktikus Modenblatt! After a lot of dithering, I'm doing it! No more procrastinating making alledgedly urgently needed jersey tops! No longer impersonating that donkey who starved facing two stacks of hay not being able to decide where to start eating! Huzzah! Fabric and… Continue reading A dress from 1952

Chain stitch hooks · Jersey · Nanotex · Vertical oscillating hook

Reliable chain stitch with the Jaguar adapter

This is the system found in Kenmore and Frister+Rossmann machines from 1970s. It is made in Japan by Marutzen/Jaguar for forward-facing vertical oscillators, or class 15 machines (based on the mechanism of Singer model 15). ​ It consists of a modified hook, a clip-on adapter that replaces the bobbin case, and a special needle plate,… Continue reading Reliable chain stitch with the Jaguar adapter

Feet · Jersey · Ruffles

The gathering foot, the ruffler and differential feed

Differential feed is when the upper and lower layers of the material are fed at different speeds, or as in overlockers when the front and rear of the feed dogs are moving at different speeds. The result is that the sewing gets stretched or gathered, either all of it or just one layer relative to… Continue reading The gathering foot, the ruffler and differential feed