Chain stitch hooks · Jersey · Nanotex · Vertical oscillating hook

Reliable chain stitch with the Jaguar adapter

This is the system found in Kenmore and Frister+Rossmann machines from 1970s. It is made in Japan by Marutzen/Jaguar for forward-facing vertical oscillators, or class 15 machines (based on the mechanism of Singer model 15). ​ It consists of a modified hook, a clip-on adapter that replaces the bobbin case, and a special needle plate,…… Continue reading Reliable chain stitch with the Jaguar adapter

Clothes · Stretch woven · Vintage patterns

A dress from 1952 – first outfit done!

My first make from the 1951/1952 vintage pattern collection from the German Praktikus Modenblatt! After a lot of dithering, I’m doing it! No more procrastinating making alledgedly urgently needed jersey tops! No longer impersonating that donkey who starved facing two stacks of hay not being able to decide where to start eating! Huzzah! Fabric and…… Continue reading A dress from 1952 – first outfit done!

Clothes · Feet · Jersey

The gathering foot, the ruffler and differential feed

Differential feed is when the upper and lower layers of the material are fed at different speeds, or as in overlockers when the front and rear of the feed dogs are moving at different speeds. The result is that the sewing gets stretched or gathered, either all of it or just one layer relative to…… Continue reading The gathering foot, the ruffler and differential feed

Clothes · Embroidery · Feet · Silk

Silk dupion, fancy stitches and fancy feet

Here’s a chance to use those fancy stitches on a grown-up garment! And try an array of fancy feet in the process. The challenges of silk dupion Stop to fraying with fancy stitches Getting even fancier with lurex shading Parallel stitching with a big clear foot Double thread stitch and twin needle sewing Stitch in…… Continue reading Silk dupion, fancy stitches and fancy feet

Chain stitch hooks · Jersey · Overlock · Vertical oscillating hook · Vibrating shuttle

Stitches that stretch with your jersey

Snap… snap-snap-snap! There go your stitches if you’ve sewn your jersey top with a regular straight stitch on your sewing machine. 😦 Surely, there must be a better way! Yes, there are in fact several. In this post I’m investigating which stitches stretch with the jersey and which don’t, using regular sewing thread, not lycra…… Continue reading Stitches that stretch with your jersey