Flexible stitch is necessary for sewing jersey so that it would stretch with the material. However, regular straight stitch of a lockstitch machine is usually not flexible. So what to do? Popular solutions include using elastic thread, sewing with narrow zig-zag instead of straight stitch or sewing with an overlocker. But what if you really… Continue reading That elusive flexible stitch
This is the system found in Kenmore and Frister+Rossmann machines from 1970s. It is made in Japan by Marutzen/Jaguar for forward-facing vertical oscillators, or class 15 machines (based on the mechanism of Singer model 15). It consists of a modified hook, a clip-on adapter that replaces the bobbin case, and a special needle plate,… Continue reading Reliable chain stitch with the Jaguar adapter
For me, a successful pattern is one that I made many times over, with variants, in different colours and fabrics. Admittedly, I haven't got many of those! But this is a story of one such pattern which is still going. The summer dress Some years ago I bought a viscose jersey dress which fitted so… Continue reading A successful pattern
Differential feed is when the upper and lower layers of the material are fed at different speeds, or as in overlockers when the front and rear of the feed dogs are moving at different speeds. The result is that the sewing gets stretched or gathered, either all of it or just one layer relative to… Continue reading The gathering foot, the ruffler and differential feed
Snap... snap-snap-snap! There go your stitches if you've sewn your jersey top with a regular straight stitch on your sewing machine. 😦 Surely, there must be a better way! Yes, there are in fact several. In this post I'm investigating which stitches stretch with the jersey and which don't, using regular sewing thread, not lycra… Continue reading Stitches that stretch with your jersey
I have new inventions to report! Wow, I'm so excited!! Well, to be fair, they are not brand new inventions of mine, but rather adaptations of my existing sewing machines to do new things. Still exciting though! Skip to Chain stitch on a vertical oscillator Skip to New double needle double step stitch The chain… Continue reading New inventions!
My trusted overlocker is a 1970s New Home Knitlock 743 made by Juki. The label says "Made in Japan for Janome", that's for, not by. It is extremely reliable, sews all kinds of fabrics with a minimal adjustment. However, to do a rolled hem, it requires a different needle plate and a special foot, and I… Continue reading A tale of two overlockers