Vertical oscillating hook

The secret of the vertical oscillating hook

Vertical oscillating hook is based on Singer 15 which was originally a side-facing straight stitch hook. It is now perhaps more familiar as a forward-facing hook in many domestic machines. There is even a rotary hook derived from it, one variant is found in Husqvarna Viking machines from 1950s, another in Janome machines from 1970s,… Continue reading The secret of the vertical oscillating hook

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Horizontal oscillating hook · Horizontal rotary hook · Vertical oscillating hook · Vertical rotary hook · Zig-zag timing

Zig-zag hooks and their strengths and weaknesses

All zig-zag machines that I've got, are round bobbin. I know of one transverse shuttle zig-zag machine: it is by Seidel & Neumann, see http://www.naehmaschine-antik.de. Round bobbin hooks can be classified like this: rotary versus oscillating, vertical versus horizontal, side-facing versus front-facing. Rotary and oscillating hooks have very similar performance characteristics when the other two… Continue reading Zig-zag hooks and their strengths and weaknesses

Favta · Motors · Vertical oscillating hook · Zig-zag timing

Favta Automatic, or was it all worth it?

This is a lovely little machine that is only slightly larger than the Featherweight, but it doesn't just do straight stitch but also zig-zag and fancy stitches with cams, it's got a good free arm and a large working table. Fantastic! This was a really expensive little thing too - I found a receipt in… Continue reading Favta Automatic, or was it all worth it?

Chain stitch hooks · Jersey · Nanotex · Vertical oscillating hook

Reliable chain stitch with the Jaguar adapter

This is the system found in Kenmore and Frister+Rossmann machines from 1970s. It is made in Japan by Marutzen/Jaguar for forward-facing vertical oscillators, or class 15 machines (based on the mechanism of Singer model 15). ​ It consists of a modified hook, a clip-on adapter that replaces the bobbin case, and a special needle plate,… Continue reading Reliable chain stitch with the Jaguar adapter

Chain stitch hooks · Jersey · Overcasting · Overlock · Straight stitch · Vertical oscillating hook · Vibrating shuttle

Stitches that stretch with your jersey

Snap... snap-snap-snap! There go your stitches if you've sewn your jersey top with a regular straight stitch on your sewing machine. 😦 Surely, there must be a better way! Yes, there are in fact several. In this post I'm investigating which stitches stretch with the jersey and which don't, using regular sewing thread, not lycra… Continue reading Stitches that stretch with your jersey