Clemens Müller · Crew · Hengstenberg · Jones · Singer · Stoewer · Transverse shuttle · Vibrating shuttle · Whittler

My secret weapon

I have four long bobbin machines, five if you count the little one too. Three are vibrating shuttle machines, one is a cylindrical transverse shuttle - all four "medium" tailors' machines. The fifth one is a Wittler hybrid - a transverse vibrating shuttle. These five machines between them not only can sew any fabric under… Continue reading My secret weapon

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Chain stitch hooks · Jersey · Straight stitch · Transverse shuttle · Vibrating shuttle

That elusive flexible stitch

Flexible stitch is necessary for sewing jersey so that it would stretch with the material. However, regular straight stitch of a lockstitch machine is usually not flexible. So what to do? Popular solutions include using elastic thread, sewing with narrow zig-zag instead of straight stitch or sewing with an overlocker. But what if you really… Continue reading That elusive flexible stitch

Bobbins · Jones · Needles · Sewing machines · Vertical rotary hook · Vibrating shuttle

Jones needles and bobbins for CS and Spool

Jones was one of the oldest British sewing machine manufacturers, established in 1859 in Greater Manchester. Jones produced a number of classes of sewing machines, but I have only worked with cylinder shuttle (CS) and rotary (Spool), so this post focuses on them. Jones CS is a vibrating shuttle machine after a White design, named… Continue reading Jones needles and bobbins for CS and Spool

Cleaning · Hengstenberg · Transverse shuttle · Vibrating shuttle · Whittler

The Hengstenberg/Anker Wittler – a transverse vibrating shuttle

It happened again - I rescued another poor soul. Start here First impressions 189? The ships The head The feed The mechanism compared to Singer 12 The first transformation 2 February 2018 Despite the looks, it is a rather special old dear: a Hengstenberg/Anker transverse vibrating shuttle known as the Wittler mechanism (no, I've never… Continue reading The Hengstenberg/Anker Wittler – a transverse vibrating shuttle

Chain stitch hooks · Jersey · Overcasting · Overlock · Straight stitch · Vertical oscillating hook · Vibrating shuttle

Stitches that stretch with your jersey

Snap... snap-snap-snap! There go your stitches if you've sewn your jersey top with a regular straight stitch on your sewing machine. 😦 Surely, there must be a better way! Yes, there are in fact several. In this post I'm investigating which stitches stretch with the jersey and which don't, using regular sewing thread, not lycra… Continue reading Stitches that stretch with your jersey