Crêpe, satin and peach · Feet · Overcasting · Straight stitch · Zig-zag stitch

Sewing crêpe, satin and peach fabrics, or You vs. the Pucker Demon

Crêpe, satin and peach fabrics come in several types and fibres, but they always remain difficult fabrics to sew. In particular, most machines have trouble sewing a straight seam along the length of the material - it puckers. Yes, it means the tension is too high, but no, it is not actually too high, and… Continue reading Sewing crêpe, satin and peach fabrics, or You vs. the Pucker Demon

Feet · Hems

Felled rolled hem that lies flat

Summer dresses often have wide skirts, so the hems are curved. Yet they also often have rolled hems that don't roll nicely on curves, they get all wrinkled up. I found that a two-step hem works better and lies flat, and I'm using the felling foot again to make it. See my previous post on… Continue reading Felled rolled hem that lies flat

Feet · Overcasting

False French seams for fine fabrics

Ah, summer! Hot weather means ice cream, lightweight fabrics and frequent washes. In sewing terms it means that the seams must be strong enough not to unravel in all those washes, which is easier said than done because lightweight fabrics are often loosely woven too, so they fray and disintegrate easily. But we don't want… Continue reading False French seams for fine fabrics

Adjusting timing · Fancy stitches · Feed dog height adjustment · Feet · Pfaff · Tension adjustment · Vertical rotary hook

Pfaff 230 Automatic

This is one of the great classics from 1955: Pfaff 230 Automatic, not to be confused with Pfaff 230 that didn't have any fancy stitches. This machine has signature Pfaff forward-facing vertical rotary hook with internal belt transmission. Zig-zag is done with a swing needle mechanism and all the fancy stuff is in the arm.… Continue reading Pfaff 230 Automatic