Jersey

Single knit viscose jersey

You are making a top out of single knit viscose jersey. How do you lay out the pieces for cutting? With the length of the fabric, of course! But it's better to lay them across the fabric instead. First, a word on jersey. Jersey is basically finely knitted fabric. It can be made of different… Continue reading Single knit viscose jersey

Chain stitch hooks · Jersey · Straight stitch · Transverse shuttle · Vibrating shuttle

That elusive flexible stitch

Flexible stitch is necessary for sewing jersey so that it would stretch with the material. However, regular straight stitch of a lockstitch machine is usually not flexible. So what to do? Popular solutions include using elastic thread, sewing with narrow zig-zag instead of straight stitch or sewing with an overlocker. But what if you really… Continue reading That elusive flexible stitch

Chain stitch hooks · Jersey · Nanotex · Vertical oscillating hook

Reliable chain stitch with the Jaguar adapter

This is the system found in Kenmore and Frister+Rossmann machines from 1970s. It is made in Japan by Marutzen/Jaguar for forward-facing vertical oscillators, or class 15 machines (based on the mechanism of Singer model 15). ​ It consists of a modified hook, a clip-on adapter that replaces the bobbin case, and a special needle plate,… Continue reading Reliable chain stitch with the Jaguar adapter

Feet · Jersey · Ruffles

The gathering foot, the ruffler and differential feed

Differential feed is when the upper and lower layers of the material are fed at different speeds, or as in overlockers when the front and rear of the feed dogs are moving at different speeds. The result is that the sewing gets stretched or gathered, either all of it or just one layer relative to… Continue reading The gathering foot, the ruffler and differential feed

Chain stitch hooks · Jersey · Overcasting · Overlock · Straight stitch · Vertical oscillating hook · Vibrating shuttle

Stitches that stretch with your jersey

Snap... snap-snap-snap! There go your stitches if you've sewn your jersey top with a regular straight stitch on your sewing machine. 😦 Surely, there must be a better way! Yes, there are in fact several. In this post I'm investigating which stitches stretch with the jersey and which don't, using regular sewing thread, not lycra… Continue reading Stitches that stretch with your jersey